Dry Skin
It is supposed to be due to vata disorder as per Ayurvedic theory.
To cleanse :
• Mix 1 tsp almond meal + l/2 tsp dry milk + 1 pinch sugar.
• In your palm make a paste using % tsp cleanser + warm water.
• Apply paste all over face and neck and gently massage into the skin for about one minute. Do not scrub. Rinse well with warm (not hot) water. Do not dry.
Special instructions : If your skin is very dry, do not follow the cleansing routine above, instead wash with a mixture of 1 tbsp heavy cream (the dairy product) + 2 drops lemon juice.
To nourish :
• Mix 1 tsp sesame oil + 10 drops geranium oil + 5 drops each neroli and lemon oils. Store in dark glass bottle with a dropper.
• In the palm of your hand, mix 3 drops of nourishing oil (above) + 6 drops water. (Replace 6 drops water with 6 drops liposome liquid, if you have it.)
• While your skin is still wet, gently massage mixture all over face and neck for about one minute, or until skin absorbs all the essential oils.
To moisturise :
• Melt 1/2 oz cocoa butter in double boiler. Add 4 oz avocado oil. Remove from heat. Using a dropper, add 1 oz orange tea, one drop at a time while stirring the mixture. When it is cool, add 3-4 drops each geranium and rose oils.
• Gently apply moisturising cream over face and neck. Do not massage it into the skin. Apply as needed during the day.
Sensitive Skin
It is supposed to be due to pitta disorder as per Ayurvedic theory.
To cleanse :
• Mix 1 tsp almond meal + Vz tsp orange peel + Vz tsp dry milk.
• In your palm make a paste using y* tsp of the mixture + rosewater.
• Apply paste all over face and neck and gently massage into the skin for about one minute. Do not scrub. Rinse well with cool (not cold) water. Do not dry.
Special instructions : If your skin is very sensitive, only use this cleanser once a day at bedtime. In the morning, wash only with plain heavy cream (the dairy product). Rinse thoroughly with cool water, then continue with the normal nourishing and moisturising steps below.
To nourish :
• Mix 1 oz almond oil + 10 drops each rose and sandalwood oils. Store in dark glass bottle with a dropper.
• In the palm of your hand, mix 2-3 drops of nourishing oil (above) + 4-6 drops water. (Replace 4-6 drops water with 6 drops liposome liquid, if you have it.)
• While your skin is still wet, gently massage mixture all over face and neck for about one minute.
To moisturise :
• Melt 1 oz cocoa butter in double boiler. Add 3 oz sunflower oil. Remove from heat: Using a dropper, add 2 oz rosewater, one drop at a time while stirring the mixture. When it is cool, add 5-6 drops sandalwood oil.
• Gently apply moisturiser over face and neck. Do not massage il into the skin. Apply extra moisturising cream as needed throughout the day.
The Daily Face Care Routine
The herbs and oils used in the daily skin care routine as well as the methods of application, differ according to complexion type, but the basic guidelines for the procedure are the same for everyone. They are :
• Do the three-step routine twice a day, once in the morning and once before bedtime. (If you have oily skin, do the full routine three times a day in the summers.) The routine takes five to ten minutes.
• Before you begin, remove face and eye makeup. Use ghee or pure vegetable oil (not essential oil) on a cotton ball and wipe gently.
• Sesame oil is good for dry skin; sunflower oil or safflower oil is good for sensitive and oily skin.
• If possible—and if applicable—do the skin care routine after exercising but before meditating.
• Cleanse the lace before or during a bath or shower, and apply the nourishing oil and moisturiser afterward.
• Always massage oil on wet skin.
• Always massage the face and neck using a gentle stroke in an upwards and outwards direction only. Do not scrub, or rub up and down, to avoid stretching the skin.
• Always massage around eyes in a circular direction from the outside corner of eye to the inside using the ring finger to ensure the gentlest touch.
• After you complete the final step, wait at least two to three minutes before applying make-up.
• For deeper exfoliation and added nourishment, do a weekly fruit face mask.
Oily Skin
It is supposed to be due to kapha disorder as per Ayurvedic theory.
To cleanse :
• Mix 1 tsp barley meal + 1 tsp lemon peel + Vz tsp dry milk.
• In your palm make a paste using V* tsp of the mixture + warm water.
• Apply paste all over face and neck and gently massage into the skin for about one minute. Do not scrub. Rinse well with lukewarm water. Do not dry.
Special instructions : Do not use soaps or astringents containing alcohol to reduce oils. If you have whiteheads, wash first with a paste made of 1/4 tsp neem powder + 1 pinch sugar + water. Then follow steps as above.
To nourish
• Mix 1 oz sunflower oil + 10 drops lavender oil + 5 drops each bergamot and clary sage oils. Store in dark glass bottle with a dropper.
• In the palm of your hand, mix 2 drops of nourishing oil (above) + 4 drops water. (Replace 4 drops water with 4 drops liposome liquid, if you have it.) While your skin is still wet, gently massage mixture all over face and neck for about one minute.
To moisturise :
• Melt 1 oz cocoa butler in a double boiler. Add 3 oz almond, sunflower, or canola oil. Remove from heat. Using a dropper, add 2 oz rosewater or basil tea, one drop at a time while stirring the mixture. When it is cool, add 1 drop camphor oil + 2 drops bergamot oil + 3 drops lavender oil.
• Gently apply a very small amount of moisluriser over face and neck. Do not massage it into the skin. Use once in the morning and evening only.
The Weekly Fruit Face Mask
To make an exfoliating mask, use :
For dry skin : Banana or avocado pulp
For sensitive skin : Banana or pineapple pulp.
For oily skin : Strawberry or papaya pulp.
Do your normal cleansing routine only. Then apply pulp to face and neck and lie down for 10-15 minutes with legs raised to increase blood supply to face. Rinse with water, then finish with your regular nourishing and moisturising routine.
Cleanse, Nourish and Moisturise from Head to Toe
The “cleanse, nourish and moisturise” rule applies to every part of the body, not just the face. However, the Ayurvedic cleansers and oils for the face are not adequate for washing and nourishing the rest of the body. The face cleanser is designed for the delicate areas of the complexion, while most other areas of the skin can tolerate a stronger scrub. On the other hand, the face oil is too concentrated (too high in essential oils) to use in the large quantity necessary to cover the total skin surface of the body, consequently, body oils contain less essential oil.
Below are cleansing and nourishing treatments for the body as a whole, as well as for its various parts, since the quality of the skin, and life’s demands upon it, differ from head to toe.
The Do’s and Don’ts of External Skin Care
Dos
Do wash your face twice a day, morning and evening, with a soft herbal cleanser and lukewarm milk or water.
Do nourish and moisturise your skin daily with the appropriate essential oil.
Do have a professional chemical peel once every 6-12 months only to get rid of dead cells and rejuvenate skin.
Do avoid excessive exposure to sun, saltwater, wind, cold and snow.
Do facial exercises once daily.
Dont’s
Don’t use heavy night creams. They clog pores and cause puffiness.
Don’t use soaps or harsh detergents on the face.
Don’t use chemical make-up removers, heavy eye creams, or oils. Instead, use cotton dipped in plain vegetable oil to remove eye make-up.
Don’t use harsh scrubs like loofahs, chemical powders or pumice stones.
Don’t use tissues to remove make-up. Wood pulp in paper is harmful to skin.
Don’t use chemical astringents or products containing alcohol.
Don’t use very hot then very cold water to wash. It breaks capillaries.
Don’t wear face make-up to sleep no matter how tired you are.
Body Beautiful
To cleanse (all skin types) :
• To make the body cleanser, mix equal parts chickpea flour + dry milk powder in a plastic spice jar.
• Sprinkle 2 tsp of body cleanser into palm of hand, add some water to make a thin paste and scrub lightly over wet skin in shower or bath. Rinse off and pat dry.
To nourish and moisturise :
To make body oil, mix 1 oz almond oil + 10 drops essential oil appropriate for your constitution. Massage on wet skin following shower.
Natural Underarm Deodorant
Mix 1 oz sandalwood powder + 1 oz arrowroot powder + 10 drops lavender oil.
Apply as needed.